MERRY CHRISTMAS

FROM OUR FAMILY TO YOURS!

Bowls, bowls, bowls... and more bowls!

So many bowls to choose from!  But which ones are best for our companions who depend on us to make the right choices for them?  Several things need to be considered when purchasing bowls.

Plastic bowls come in lots of colors, shapes, sizes, and are relatively inexpensive, but are they the best?  Probably not, unless you like a disposable bowl.  Odors like to cling to plastic.  Allergies to plastic are not uncommon.  They are easy to crack, chip, and chew requiring you to replace often.  The surface readily scratches creating perfect spots for bacteria to harbor, even when cleaned in the dishwasher.  Good for a road trip or if you like to replace the bowls weekly.

Automatic bowls (usually plastic) are designed to keep your pet's bowl full as long as there is food or water in the reservoir.  While this may be convenient for you, it is not healthy for your dog!  There's the plastic issue, especially the ones which use plastic soda bottles for the storage compartment.  Free-feeding is not ideal for your dogs, as it does not allow for accurate monitoring of food intake which can lead to weight problems.  Chances of the food going bad are very high because it is exposed to air and sunlight for prolonged periods of time causing digestive problems.  Programmable ones are available to control portions, however, they are still plastic and there is always a chance of your dog being able to break in.  

Having a pet is not about convenience, just feed your pet in person.

Ceramic bowls can be fun, unique, personalized, and match your decor.  They can also be expensive and easily broken if dropped.   Ceramic is easy to clean, most are dishwasher safe.  However, these bowls easily crack; even smaller, less visible cracks can harbor nasty bacteria which can make your pet sick.  If this is your choice be sure to inspect them regularly for damage.  Make sure they are lead free.

Stainless steel bowls are durable, practical, inexpensive, and will stand the test of time. Corrosion, odor, and rust resistent.  Easy to wash.  They don't come in a lot of colors but the designs are increasing.  Yes, these are the bowls you should be using!  Look for heavier high quality stainless steel as they will last longer and you'll be happier with them. 

Bowls come in several varieties for your pet's individual needs.  For those that tend to wolf down their food, including cats, purchase a slow-feed bowl or place a steel ball in the bowl.  This forces them to eat slower and therefore gulp down less air.  When cats eat too much too fast they tend to throw it up.  In dogs this is suspected to cause bloat*.   For those that like to play with bowls use heavy wide bottoms that discourage tipping and non-skid bottoms to help keep food in place.  You can always pick them up when they're done to discourage chewing.   

Tips:

• Look at your pet's bowls ~ Would you eat out of it?  No?  Then replace it.  (I'm referring to chewed up plastic bowls here.)
• Would you feed your family with last night's dishes or yesterday's used glasses?  No?  Show your pets the same courtesy and wash their bowls in hot soapy water or the dishwasher daily to remove slime build up that encourages bacteria.
• Use bowls large enough for single servings but small enough to restrain your over-feeding habits.
• Water bowls should be, at minimum, twice the size of daily food portions and kept full of fresh water to ensure proper hydration.  Some animals love cold water so throw some ice cubes in.
• For older arthritic and extra large breeds raising their bowls can make it easier on their backs, necks, and joints.*
• Avoid combination bowls as the water and food get mixed up causing messes, nasty food, dirty water, odors, bacterial growth, etc.
• For long-eared dogs use a bowl narrow enough that their ears fall on the outside of the bowl.
• Be responsible if you are going to be away for a prolonged period of time.  Put your dog in daycare or ask a friend to give them a break and feed them to keep them on schedule.

*Please watch for a future post on bloat as there are mixed thoughts on raised bowls and bloat.

Toxic Holiday Plants Reminder

Amaryllis

Chances are you've seen this several times before but, just in case you haven't, I'm reminding you ~ you're welcome!

Pine Trees

We head out on a cold, and usually rainy, night to deliberate over which tree will be chosen as our Christmas tree each year.  Poinsettias *  are always on the hearth and front porch.  If we find a nice Christmas cactus, it will adorn a table for the winter months.  My daughter loves to watch an amaryllis grow and bloom so there is usually one in the brightest window.  Mistletoe is always a fun decoration if you're having a party or just madly in love and want any excuse for extra kisses.  Garlands of fresh or fake greenery with holly berries are hung everywhere.  Plants are a natural part of the holiday decor in our house as I'm sure it is most houses at Christmastime.  

Holly Berries

Mistletoe

Some of these plants can be potentially toxic if eaten by your pets.  Never count on your cats and dogs to know poisonous plants they should avoid, even if they've done so in the past.  Annika has to taste every new plant in the house and yet survives the holidays every year.  I am vigilant to check the leaves, keep needles swept up, look for missing ornaments, etc., but is this enough?  Probably not, and one day I'm going to end up at the vet with a sick somebody during the month of December.

Christmas Cactus

A few tips for the holidays:

• Tinsel and the plastic needles on artificial trees are just as bad for your pets.
• Keep needles swept up.
• Watch for missing leaves and ornaments.
• Look for unusually lethargic animals, vomiting, diarrhea, glassed-over eyes, pale gums, excessive drooling, frothy mouth, decreased appetite, just to name a few, as signs that your pet may have ingested something possibly toxic and don't hesitate to get them to your vet.

Poinsettias

* Poinsettias are not fatal, as has been exaggerated in more recent years, but can give your pet a really good upset stomach, so should be kept out of your pet's reach.  

Story from our past:

After months of living in a rental house with a huge oleander growing in the backyard my dog got ahold of 7 leaves.  I know this because she regurgitated them on the kitchen floor. Oleanders are very poisonous so, yes, we headed to the vet (an emergency 24 hr vet, which cost twice as much, of course, because it was on the weekend).  The plant was gone when I got home.  We were blessed that her body naturally got rid of the leaves right away and the only side-effect was lethargy.

No Christmas Puppies, Please!

"No Christmas Puppies, Please!" by Ruth Ginsberg (1993) is an great article that points out some excellent reasons puppies should not be a choice for Christmas gifts.  In case you skipped it, here's a condensed list of the highlights:  

• "Groups as diverse as, and often at odds with one another as, the Humane Society of the United States, canine behavior experts, the American Kennel Club, People for Ethical Treatment of Animals, Animal Rights Activists, breed rescue groups, veterinarians, obedience training instructors, and most reputable breeders of sound, healthy dogs, are in strong agreement that live puppies should not be given as Christmas gifts."
• Developmentally 7-12 weeks is the best time for a puppy to leave his mother and litter to be introduced into his new family.  During this period fears and lifelong personality traits are established.  All of the excitement and busy-ness at Christmastime equals the worst time to put a puppy through this transition.
• Most children associate the puppy as just another gift under the tree.  Puppies are live beings in need of care and love; not a toy to be tossed aside when their owner grows bored with them. 
• Your breeder should not allow you to take the puppy home on Christmas morning.  If so, she does not have the puppy's best interests in mind, and you should get your pup from someone else!
• According to studies, the majority of puppies and kittens never reach their 2nd birthday.  Puppies grow up and have needs.  Owners either do not understand the need for proper socialization, training, and care, or do understand, but avoid their responsibilities.  These owners become disenchanted because their puppies are too much trouble, have behavior problems, cost too much, etc.  Some of these dogs wind up living in abusive homes, or are completely neglected.  Others die from lack of proper care or are euthanized, either at the owner's request to a vet or after they've been dropped off at a shelter.  Many run away, are hit by cars or dumped and left to whatever comes.  Once in a while they move from home to home with each new owner giving up because they don't have the patience or knowledge to deal with whatever behavior modification is needed.  (Mrs. Ginsberg's section regarding this is well worth your time to read!) 

As an alternative, follow the article's advice.  Get a toy dog, supplies, books, local veterinary and training information, and wrap them all up.  The excitement of a new puppy is still part of Christmas but not lost in the festivities.  After the new year, when things settle down, start researching what's involved in raising a puppy.  Once you've decided, as a family, that you have the time and desire to provide for the puppy's training, health care, and emergencies; then is the time to consider which breed is best for your family.  At that point you will be ready to look for a rescue, consider adoption, or find a responsible breeder.

Rather than the impulsive Christmas puppy that has the likelihood of ending up a disappointment, wouldn't you prefer a lifelong member of the family?  With commitment from every member of the family, proper research, and time invested in your puppy you'll have just that!

I still recommend you read Mrs. Ginsberg's article.

'Twas the Puppy's First Christmas...

   Imagine.  You've just left your mother and litter mates.  A bow is tied around your neck and you're placed in the bottom of a box.  Then the lid is closed.  You start to smell around, thoughts of your mother's warm body in your head.  Strange noises catch your attention and, although you haven't learned yet to fear, something makes your tummy clench.  Thump!  Light!  Freedom!  Oh, wow, kids!  Squealing, and laughing they pick you up, hug you, scratch your ears. One of them pulls you away from the other.  Their mother gently picks you up to save you from the assault but you want the attention and you want to play so you squirm out of her arms to get back down.

   After a while you get tired and crawl away to nap but you're picked up again and so you play a little longer.  Wondering when you'll get to eat, the memories come back, you whine and eventually curl up to sleep.  Awaking to the kid's playing you're hungry but head over to inspect the new toys.  Several times of being pushed away you give up and look for a spot to relieve yourself only to be yelled at and then the kids don't want to touch you because you're "gross".  Finally, you get some food but it's cold, hard, and dry ~ where's mom?

   A month has passed.  You no longer miss your mother.  This family plays with you often enough, after some persuasion, but not as much as they used to.  Pleasing your family is your priority but accidents happen when you can't get outside soon enough.  Lots of yelling, what they call training... well, they need to learn your body is still very young and needs frequent breaks.  Some habits are starting to form, not because you don't love your family but... why don't they play anymore and why are they always yelling?  Chewing, digging, barking, scratching, and biting (because you're a dog and don't know any better) are your main source of entertainment.

   You're spending more time outside these days.  When allowed inside it's to be put in the kennel.  Sometimes the kids forget to feed you and you go to bed hungry in the hole you've dug behind the bushes.  Happy to play when the family does but they stop before long because you bite and play too rough.  If they'd only show you what they want, you'd be more than happy to do it for them.  Puppy class was fun and you tried really hard but your family wasn't consistent and didn't practice.  They tell people, "We took him to training but it didn't stick" blaming it on you.  They missed the part where the instructor mentioned that the class was for them. 

   One day Dad puts your leash on and takes you for a ride.  You hear barking behind the door when you arrive.  That clench in your tummy is now known as fear and the feeling is very strong.  He pats you on the head saying, "goodbye", and leaves.  A nice young lady places you in  one of a long row of cages, along with many barking dogs.  Every one of them has a different story and you find out yours isn't so bad.  Your family never comes back.  You thought they were your family.

    ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     ~~~~~     

Every child dreams of waking up Christmas morning to find a box that has an adorable puppy pop out.  Parents may even dream of seeing their child experience a Christmas morning such as this.  If you are one of these parents, I'm begging you, please don't do it!  Christmas is the worst time to introduce a new puppy into your family.  You can't expect a puppy to feel comfortable and be able to settle into the stressful, busy atmosphere of the holidays with strangers coming and going, out of the norm decor, and your routine up-side-down.  There is a right time to introduce a puppy into your home and Christmas is not it.

I ran across an excellent article on this matter ~ No Christmas Puppies, Please!  If you're not willing to read it, I will have a condensed list of it's highlights in my next post.  Be forewarned: my writing isn't anywhere near as good as hers.  

Poop Patrol

Ever found something that shouldn't be there while cleaning up your back yard?  I have.  One day I discovered a couple of very red piles.  Fortunately it was only tomatoes and peppers from the garden.....  that time.

It's actually a good idea to clean up after your dog daily.  This gives you a chance to check for parasites, foreign objects they shouldn't be eating, and to make sure anything that may have disappeared actually shows back up.  If not, an x-ray might be a good idea....

I happen to be more experienced in this activity than I'd like to be.  My two pups have eaten all kinds of stuff but there is usually nothing to worry about until.... they decided to share a tennis ball.  Hydrogen peroxide to the rescue!  (We know our vet staff well!)  Never assume it will pass, especially something that may have rough, sharp edges or stretch to over 6 inches.

On Thanksgiving two socks rebelled at being a snack earlier that week.  One in the morning, the other later that night.  Fortunately, the family got to miss both episodes.  The next day Tucker, our Bernese Mountain Dog, had exploratory surgery resulting in the removal of a tank top that had stretched and then bunched up just past his duodenum.  Apparently he has a cotton fetish.  Of all the things for a dog to crave!  Do you know how much cotton is laying around you house?  Merlin, our Golden Retriever, was apparently feeling left out.  So, the following Friday he got to repeat the hydrogen peroxide experience when he ate a good-sized portion of the tray in his kennel.  Weird part was the next morning when he finished regurgitating ~ up came the end of a Nylabone with it.  They hadn't had one since August ~ it was black, not the original light brown.  I still wonder if there's anything else floating around in there.....

Be diligent about noticing changes in your pets.  Behavior, routine, feces, unusual odors, ears, gums, skin between paws, coat, eyes, appetite, etc.  If something isn't right for a couple of days, a visit to the vet is in order.  Don't wait.  Doing so could be detrimental to your pet and very likely your wallet.

Which Litter Box?

I'm sure you're tired of this subject by now so I'll attempt to be brief....

While in search of a litter box and accessories, avoid all the gimmicks ~

• Hooded boxes ~  Sure it covers the mess but the smell is still there.  Remember "out of sight, out of mind"?  Yeah, you're not going to clean it if you don't see it.  More secure for the timid?  Maybe, until they have to exit and fear the more dominate cat pouncing on them.  Larger cats will very likely feel crowded and they don't offer much in the way of potty area.
• Filters are worthless .  All they do is trap dust.  Yes, dust can be a health issue so shop around and if you find a litter that isn't dusty, let me know!  Remember to buy unscented litter!   
• Don't waste your money on liners if your cat has claws.....  (There's always an exception to the rule.)
• Even if you're going to spend the money for one of the self cleaning  litter boxes they still have to be emptied regularly.

Don't be lazy, just clean your cat's litter box regularly.

I won't be promoting products on this blog but I may mention some once in a while.  This is one of those "whiles".  My favorite litter box goes against some of the things I've previously mentioned like hooded boxes, not allowing litter clumps to break up, smaller litter area, etc.  Well, it works well for us and it's still my favorite.  I use an unscented clay clumping litter and empty it in the morning and once in a while in the evenings.  On occasion it goes a day or two (like when I'm sick and nobody else wants litter box duty).  That I know of, you can only order them online and I recommend the largest they have unless you have only one really small cat.

The Omega Paw Roll'n Clean litter box is easy to use, you never touch the litter, and it costs about the same as any other box you'll find in the stores.  I've had mine for about 4 years now.  If it gets loose and litter gets in the seam between the top and bottom, the grill can also come loose.  This has only happened twice for me and both times I was careless about getting the tabs tightly closed.  I lay mine on it's back to add litter through the opening.  Here's where you'll find it:  http://www.omegapaw.com/products/roll-clean-litter-box.html

Here's how it works:

The unique patented grill inside the Roll'n Clean scoops out the clumped waste, depositing it into the pull-out tray.

Just roll the litter box slowly onto it's top, and roll back to the up-right positon.  Remove the tray and dispose of waste!  Fast and easy.

*** Note:  Most of the problems I have discussed are man-made but I want to reiterate - if your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, please consult your veterinarian immediately.  There are plenty of medical reasons for a cat to stop using his or her litter box ~ some can be life-threatening ~ so please start with a veterinary exam to rules these out.  And, be patient.

Dos and Don'ts

Excellent response to "Cats Like It Clean" ~

"It's true, though, 99% of pet issues start with the parent.  We should all understand and correct what causes the issues and not blame them for doing what comes naturally."  Thank you, Michelle!

Offering your cats an inviting litter box set-up is a small price to pay for happy cats and you'll be happy your cats are happy.  Here are some dos and don'ts when it comes to providing an area the cat will be drawn to rather than choosing the middle of your bed.

• Scoop the litter daily, preferably twice ~  Doing so will keep the odor down and reduce lingering germs.  Remove all solids without allowing the wet clumps to break up.  I keep a small sealable trash can next to ours to empty the waste into each time so smells are contained. 
• Use clumping litter ~  Do not use non-clumping, pelleted, or crystal litter. (Exception: Kittens less than 7-8 weeks old**) ~  It's more inviting if it's comfortable to walk on.  Non-clumping does not allow for complete removal of waste therefore leaving germs behind.  Dumping your cat's waste in the toilet is so last century...
• Unscented litter and no deodorizers on the litter ~  Some cats are turned off by unnatural scents so go with unscented litter and do not spray with disinfectant.  I do use Febreeze on the rug under the litter box to keep things fresh (pick a time that allows it to dry before cats will be walking on it).
• Keep the litter 3 to 4 inches deep ~  This provides them plenty to cover their mess with.  Of course, you have those that scratch all day and still don't cover anything up.  Can't help you out there.
• Offer a large but not hooded litter box ~ If your intent is to keep odor from reaching your nose think again.  It doesn't work.  Been there, done that.  (I talk more about this in 'Which Litter Box?')
• Place in a quiet area ~  It should be away from the activity of the house and dogs so they feel secure while taking care of business.  Mine is in the utility room which is not necessarily the quietest but it works for my cats.  I also keep a gate at the door to keep the dogs out ~ not really convenient on laundry days (well, everyday in this house) but it's better than the bad breath and litter stuck to my dog's mouths.  Just the thought ~ yuck!
• Use a comfortable litter mat, no plastic grass mats ~  There are all kinds of mats available to help catch the litter that gets caught in between the cat's pads and keeps them from tracking it all over the house.  I've tried several and I now use a thin plastic mat under a rug which I can shake out frequently and wash when necessary.  No, it doesn't catch it all but it helps.  Jumping over the gate kind of finishes the job too.
• Make sure there are plenty of boxes available in multi-cat homes ~  Offering more than one litter box if you've got cats that pick on each other gives the less dominate cat a chance to go in private.  Finding place for the second one can be tricky and it's twice the work too.  One can work but why take the chance?  Think before taking in another cat.
• SEEK VETERINARIAN HELP IF YOUR CAT STOPS USING THE LITTER BOX ~  If you have done everything you can and the situation doesn't change please take your cat to the vet.  There are several health issues that can be the cause of a cat not using his litter box.  Most are treatable but if left alone may become more serious, meaning more costly treatment, or even fatal.  Never put off going to the vet.
• Please do not punish the cat for not using the litter box ~  This only makes them mean and they get absolutely nothing out of it except a fear of you.
• Do not put children in charge of maintaining the litter box ~  Choose ways to teach your children responsibility other than cleaning the litter box unless you are going to walk right behind them and make sure they are doing their job.  Maybe they can be in charge of food and water or regular playtime.

**Kittens tend to have diarrhea in their first few weeks and frequently eat the litter.  This makes clumping litter potentially dangerous for those under 7-8 weeks of age.

Cats Like It Clean!

NOBODY likes cleaning out the litter box.  NOBODY.  Cats like a dirty litter box even less!

I personally believe and have experienced that a one cat household is the happiest.  No, they do not need a playmate.  The cat is dependent on his or her human for affection and play.  Generally they will be a sweeter cat because there is not another to compete with for dominance, domain, or the human's attention.  Yes, I know this first hand and from more than one occasion.  Unfortunately, even I can't stick to my own insight and currently have more than one (this will be the last time that will happen in this house!).

Cats are great 1st pets, senior's pets, only pets, apartment pets, pets for working busy families.  They can be very independent and take care of themselves.  Most don't require as much grooming although many love to be brushed and only truly hairless cats don't shed.  (Just because they have short hair does not mean they shed less but, in many cases, more.)  You can place huge bowls of food and water out for them when you go on vacation and have a friend clean out their litter box....

Oh, litter boxes.  That's what I was going to write about....  Maybe I'll return to discuss more about cats in another post :)

Let's discuss the litter box from your cat's point of view.  You should know that inappropriate elimination is the number one reason that cats are relinquished to a shelter, tossed out, or even abused.  Usually the fault lies with the human that is in charge of litter box duties.  Please do not force your cat to suffer a dirty litter box by designating this responsibility to your children without checking that the job was done on a daily basis.  It is much easier to prevent an inappropriate elimination problem with proper diet and proficient litter box practices than it is to fix once it starts.

Do you know anybody that just loves to use a porta potty?  I didn't think so.  Neither does your cat and yet we allow their litter boxes to frequently reach beyond that point.  Cats have a great sense of smell and it is in their nature to be very clean and want a place they can cover up their waste and not have to walk around in it.  Some are pickier than others but all will start eliminating outside the litter box if it is too small, not clean, or doesn't provide the privacy the cat needs away from other cats in the house.  If your cat is inappropriately eliminating elsewhere this is a list of things to consider changing:

• Dirty litter box
• Poor choice of litter
• Location ~ should be easily accesible, especially if there is a dominate cat blocking a lesser cat
• Too small of a litter box
• Lack of privacy (yes, this is an issue for some cats)
• In a multi-cat household you may need multiple litter boxes available
• MEDICAL ISSUES
• diabetes
• cystitis
• stones
• partial urethral blockage
• urinary tract infection
• incontinence in seniors

Upcoming posts will cover: do's and don't for litter boxes, litter, size, location, my favorite litter box, and whatever else comes to mind.

Winter Warmth

Remember the 100+ temperatures just a few weeks back?  They're gone!  It's getting cold and we've pulled out our winter sweaters and coats, scarves and blankets to keep warm in.  While our friends have natural coats sometimes it's not enough to keep them warm in our environment. 

In the wild they have dens to sleep in, packs to snuggle with, hibernation.  They also spent the summer months putting on fat to insulate them during the winter months.

Living in a home or back yard is different, and we, as the ones responsible for their well being, need to make sure they are comfortable also.  Offer outdoor pets plenty of shelter from the cold and wind.  Add some blankets or a bale of hay for them to nest in.  When it freezes make sure their water doesn't freeze and that they have plenty of it.  If they are a smaller breed they need to be indoors with you (cats too!).

Inside they receive shelter from the elements but it is cooler and drafty.  Of course, they still need to venture outside to take care of business and hopefully you're still exercising them!  A pet bed, blanket, or towels, if you've got hard floors, would be nice ~ especially for older dogs or those with joint issues.

I used to think that increasing their food by a very small amount was good for my babes.  Well, this may be okay if they are underweight but not if they aren't.  Most dogs these days are overfed, and therefore overweight, so DON'T feed them more in the winter.

< Artemis is 10 years old and requires some extra warmth that we provide with a lamp that offers heat.  She has to be warm so she can digest her food.  If she's not...  well, you don't want to know.  I like to decrease the hours the light is on to simulate shorter winter days.  She doesn't exactly hibernate but we do feed her less often.  Water is always available!  

As a side note, snakes, reptiles, arachnids, and other small critters need warmth throughout the year.  For their health, know what your pet needs and provide it.

The fish, which we no longer have, appreciate shorter days too.  Of course, this is a fish geek thing so I won't go into that.

Birds need to be kept warm as well.  They aren't wild, never were.  Their ancestors were but if you've got a bird, it came from a domestic bird.  You can provide places for them to cuddle up in, give them a little more food, and partially cover their cages.   

The best way to make sure your pets are warm is to curl up on the sofa and snuggle with them!!

Probiotics

Probiotics are live microorganisms: microbes, yeasts and bacilli.  Adding probiotics to your dog's and cat's diet is not only easy ~ it's smart!  

Kefir is our main source of probiotics.  It's a fermented milk drink much like yogurt except they differ in the beneficial bacteria that are in them.  Apparently it's easy to make ~ I wouldn't know.  I prefer the ease of grabbing mine from the dairy section when I'm at the store.  Plain for the dogs, strawberry for myself.

Here are a few of the benefits of the live and active cultures in Kefir:

• Supports digestive health, like pumpkin
• Improves immune system
• Assists in weight loss
• Helps alleviate lactose intolerance, IBS, Crohn's and colitis
• Replaces good bacteria that antibiotics wipe out
• Reduces flatulence

It all began with flatulence, my main and favorite reason for using Kefir.  Merlin has the WORST!

A younger picture of the culprit....

Somebody mentioned yogurt and I discovered Kefir while shopping.  After some label reading and quick research it is now a daily part of their diets.  It took a couple of months but we now breathe fresh air without worries at all times and are so thankful.  

I ran out a while back and then forgot to pick up more on a trip for groceries.  After a few days Merlin got stinky again.  A text was immediately sent asking Michael to pick some up on his way home from work.  We never miss a day now!

Antibiotics are necessary for killing off bad bacteria when your pet is sick.  While this is a good thing the massacre includes the good bacteria as well.  Therefore, giving them probiotics when they are sick replaces the good and helps them get back to normal quickly.

Rambling Thoughts....

Why did I start this blog?  To pass along information that many people may not know.  I love to share my experiences and knowledge (and, of course, my opinions!) based on what has worked best with our critters over the years.  This information comes from several sources: veterinarians, breeders, trainers, others with the same interests, reading, and internet research.

I've learned a lot in the past year with these puppies in hopes of providing them with long healthy lives and in doing so I've had to change my views on quite a few things.

Yes, you can grab a bag of the cheapest dog food at the store, make sure he's got water, and take him to the vet only "because he hasn't been acting right for the past week", to heck with brushing their teeth, and they can live 15 years.  Times changes, advances are made, new things are available and we should be taking advantage of it for our dog's and cat's sakes.  Welcome to the 21st century!

I've got all kinds of things bouncing around in this brain that I want to write about :)  I don't always remember why I do the things I do so I am researching the subjects before writing my posts and this has proved informative to say the least.  I'm reminded of why I do a certain thing and that there is always an opposing side.

So, garner what you will, use what you like, enjoy and share!